THE HAIR OF NYFWMonday, 28th September 2015 •
THE LABEL ALTUZARRA
THE LOOK FOLK ROCK
THE BOSS ODILE GILBERT FOR MOROCCANOIL
The natural fabrics and effortless layering that characterised Altuzarra’s runway looks gave off a thrown-together, laid back feeling that was echoed in the wispy, loosely pinned-back twists. Inspired by folk rock musicians, Odile Gilbert of Moroccanoil wanted to create a natural, unstructured look. Want to try this breezy style?
Starting with damp hair, use your fingers to comb Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream through strands from root-to-tip. Then, mist a few pumps of Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection throughout the hair. The two will help create a rough and natural texture. Rough dry the entire head using a hair dryer with a diffuser attachment. Gently twist random sections with fingers as you go to enhance the natural-looking effect without building volume. With each hand, grab a section of hair from the front of each side of the head. Begin to pull these two sections of the hair away from the face, twisting them back and away from the face. Secure low with a clear elastic, creating a “V” shape with the hair. Leaving the remaining hair loose and draped down the back. Set the twisted style with a few mists of Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray, then pull wisps of hair out of the front hairline to frame the face.
THE LABEL REBECCA VALLANCE
THE LOOK POP NOIR
THE BOSS PAUL NORTON FOR JOICO
The bold lines of Rebecca Vallance’s collection were beautifully topped off with luscious cascading curls by Joico’s Paul Norton. These super sleek locks are all about radiant shine and vibrant hues. Joico, being the hair health experts, are all about a solid foundation of rich, nourished colour. Using colour-infusing shampoos and conditioners can give your hair this healthy glow; brunettes with highlights can try Joico’s Color Balance Blue to prevent or correct brassiness. Blondes will benefit from Joico’s Color Balance Purple to boost shine and correct any developing orange tinge. For redheads there’s Joico’s Color Infuse Red for longer lasting, rich colour.
To achieve this sleek style, use a round brush to blow-dry hair starting from the roots, angling the nozzle downwards. Follow through to the ends, rounding under slightly. Spray dried hair with Joico IronClad and flatiron starting at the root area down about two inches. Using a large curling iron, curl one inch sections of hair away from the face. Once hair is curled, use a large paddle brush and vigorously brush through the curls to create a super glam, bouncy wave. Finish the look using Joico’s all-star Hair Shake.
THE LABEL TOME
THE LOOK FRESHLY SLICKED
THE BOSS KENNA FOR EVO
This ‘fresh out of the shower and flawless’ look was a raw take on slicked back hair, created by Evo hair director, Kenna. Sleek yet subtly imperfect, the look let the bold TOME pieces do the talking. Inspired by the work of Australian sculptor, Fiona Hall, the TOME collection with the collection featured textures on prints on textures. These were taken to new levels of chic by ribbed, brushed back locks created using Evo’s Gangsta Grip and the Roy wide-tooth comb. The style was the perfect edgy base to show off achingly cool metallic shades and oversized earrings.
To get this look, dry the hair back behind the ears with the Bradford brush, creating a natural scruffy texture for the length. Start at the nape, section the hair one inch and apply Gangsta Grip to the roots with your fingertips, flattening hair to scalp. Continue sections up the head using Gangsta Grip and Truman. In front of the ears, take diagonal forward sections, continue to the hairline and use Roy for a ribbed effect. Dry the Gangsta Grip in place and spritz a little Shebang-a-bang into the back of the hair for a beautiful subtle contrast.
THE LABEL DION LEE
THE LOOK SOFT GRUNGE
THE BOSS JOHN PULITANO FOR REDKEN
Dion Lee showcased a dreamy collection of contrasts – hard shoulders in peach suede, flowing fabric in inky black, fringing, gentle drapes. The hair was effortless, playing on the lush mood of the garments. John Pulitano explains his inspiration for the heavenly style. “The soft, sexy look that I created for the DION LEE Show was inspired by the collection – technical but sensual, centred and uninhibited. AERATE 08 provided airy, weightless volume and hold for this style, and ARGAN-6 OIL finished the look with ultimate suppleness and frizz-free shine.”
On damp hair, using your fingers, create an uneven centre part. Apply AERATE 08 Bodifying Cream-Mousse through the hair to create frizz-free body. Select sections and twist away from the face and blow-dry and lightly brush hair with a soft bristle brush. Lightly spray the hair with IRON SHAPE 11 Finishing Thermal Spray for essential thermal protection. Using a large wand, wrap random mid-length sections of hair around the barrel for a few seconds leaving the ends straight. Focus only on the top layers of the hair. Apply one pump of ALL SOFT Argan-6 Oil into your hands and fingertips. Distribute the product through the mid-lengths and into the ends as you create a mock ponytail. Release and apply remaining product into the top of the hair. Tuck the side sections of hair behind the ears and finish the look with a light spray of FASHION WORK 12 Versatile Working Spray.
THE LABEL JEREMY SCOTT
THE LOOK BEAUTIFUL TRASH
THE BOSS EUGENE SOULEIMAN FOR WELLA
“Jeremy isn’t just a designer – he’s a star with a huge fan base that thrives on the drama, creativity and tongue-in-cheek humour of his work,” said Wella’s Eugene Souleiman. “He loves extremes and this is the biggest venue he’s ever shown in, so we needed the hair to reflect that scale and deliver high drama on the runway.”
In true Jeremy Scott style, his collection was kooky, bright and full of oversized prints. And the clothes weren’t all that was loud; the hair volume was cranked all the way up. “Building on the late-50s-meets-80s Americana influence that Jeremy loves, we created a caricature of that classic John Waters look, with masses of graphic, structured volume at the roots, set off by incredibly soft and bouncy movement through the lengths, explained Eugene. “It’s trashy and totally over-the-top, but really beautiful at the same time.”
“To get volume on this scale you need to create the texture of over-processed hair as this holds its structure much better,” explains Eugene. “Start by prepping the hair with a 50/50 mixture of Wella Professionals Extra Volume and Wella Professionals Create Character and set it in large pin curls before over-drying it – it’s crucial that you get absolutely all of the moisture out of the hair in order to create volume that holds its shape but still has plenty of elasticity and movement.”
THE LABEL MONIQUE LHUILLIER
THE LOOK TIED UP IN KNOTS
THE BOSS RECINE FOR MOROCCANOIL
Embroidery, fur, embellishments, printed sheers and lots of colour; it was all happening at Monique Lhuillier. The intricate details in texture and hue were paired with a simple, chic take on the chignon; a knotted bun with a elastic tie as a subtle twist on the classic style.
Starting with damp hair, use your fingers to comb Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse through strands from root-to-tip. Rough Dry. For a high-shine style, generously mist entire head with Moroccanoil Glimmer Spray. Using a wide-tooth comb, comb hair to the back centre of the head and secure with an elastic. Thread a 4″ piece of elastic horizontally through the centre of the ponytail (behind the pony elastic), and leave loose for the next step. Gently twist ponytail into a figure 8 chignon, tucking in any loose ends. Then pull each side of the threaded elastic around the chignon and tie in a knot at the centre to secure chignon in place. Set the style with a generous mist of Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray.
THE LABEL POLA THOMSON
THE LOOK GRAPHIC LINES
THE BOSS ANTONIO CORRAL CALERO FOR MOROCCANOIL
Complementing structural shapes in feminine shades of pink, olive and cream, this flawless, half pinned back style was inspired by both the directional lines of the collection, and the circular motion of the cosmos.
Starting with damp hair, apply Moroccanoil Treatment and blow dry straight using the Moroccanoil Boar Bristle Classic Brush. Using a comb, create a deep side part on over the arch of the left eyebrow. Next, mist the entire head with Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection and comb through. Beginning at the base of the head, flat iron 3 inch sections, working your way up until the entire head is complete.Comb the section hair on the left side back behind the ear and down under the nape of the neck. Secure this hair to a small section of hair at the nape with an elastic (concealing it with the remainder of the hair) and mist with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray for hold. Mist a 3 inch section of hair at the right side of the part, and comb in a sweeping motion across the forehead and back across the back of the head all the way to the right side and underneath the loose hair. Secure this section to the concealed ponytail at the nape of the neck with another elastic. Mist the entire head with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray for a smooth, sleek and luminous finish.
THE LABEL DKNY
THE LOOK HANDSOME BEAUTY
THE BOSS EUGENE SOULEIMAN FOR WELLA
With Donna Karan passing the DKNY baton to new head designers Dao-yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne this year, this preppy-chic collection was the centre of attention at NYFW. Featuring masculine tailoring and crisp whites, stripes and slick navy silks, the fashion was paired with razor sharp, side parted locks. “I love the simplicity of this look,” explains head hair stylist Eugene Souleiman.
“The blend of the deep masculine side-parting at the front and softer, feminine texture through the lengths feels very modern, but it has a classically handsome beauty at the same time. It’s the kind of look I imagine Lauren Bacall would wear if she was a young woman today – graphic, powerful and polished.” The seamless blend between rigid control at the front and soft flowing texture at the back was the key feature of this look. Working on clean, dry hair, Eugene took the unusual approach of using Wella Professionals Stay Firm hairspray as the styling, rather than finishing, product.
THE LABEL CUSHNIE ET OCHS
THE LOOK GEOMET-CHIC
THE BOSS ANTONIO CORRAL CALERO FOR MOROCCANOIL
Sleek sectioned hair mirrored the slinky cutout pieces that sashayed down the Cushnie et Ochs runway this NYFW. The palette was all crisp pastels; arctic white, lavender and peach, paired with deep purple lips.
To recreate this intricately minimal style, start at the base of the head, and flat iron 3 inch sections, working your way up until the entire head is complete. Section off all of the hair at the very top of the head from the hairline to about 3 inches back. Apply a generous amount of Moroccanoil Smoothing Lotion to the section and with a fine tooth comb, smooth all hair back away from the face with a clear elastic 2″ below the crown of the head. Next, using the comb to draw two vertical parts from the top of each ear to meet the upper section, creating two smaller sections of hair from the hairline to ear on each side of the head. Before working with these sections apply Moroccanoil Smoothing Lotion to the loose hair at the back of the head and comb through until the hair is perfectly straight. Set in place with Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray. Return to the two sections at the side of the head, apply Moroccanoil Smoothing Lotion to each and comb straight back until the meet at the back of the head. Secure these with a clear elastic underneath the ponytail from the top section.
Monday, 28th September 2015 •